Lumpy Wednesday

The burliest part of Cardiff today was making it out. The drift and inside close-out was pretty hectic. Way too much west in the swell. I paddled out in the rivermouth and didn't make it out the back until I had drifted to between Chart House and Charlies. Once outside it was about Double Overhead with the occasional bigger set. Lots of water moving around and pretty lumpy. Some decent waves were had between the closeouts and mush. Lots of nice drops that turned into mushballs after. Caught 4 waves in about 45 minutes, then was swept down to Chart House trying to get back out. Thought about walking back and paddling back out, but, after working overnight the last two nights, just didn't have it in me. Once back on the beach I was surprised to learn that a few well respected veterens tried twice and never made it out. That made me feel kinda good. Sleep made me feel even better.





Photos Courtesy of Surfshot