A moment of suspense, a whirl of the mounts, and they are off for a joyous ride.
The surfmen rise to their feet the instant the boards have slid down the advancing slope, clear of the foaming break which is about to curl over them.
A blunder now means a ducking in the blinding spray.
Two paddlers in the left background are waiting for the next wave.
Photograph and caption : Tom Blake, National Geographic Magazine May 1935, page 598.
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