The Brownfish Experiment

Mighty Max

2010-10-22T08:02:00.000-07:00

I got this e-mail from my best friend last night. This event is being held in Cardiff on Friday night. This handplane along with another will be there for the silent auction. Having three young kids that are all around Max's age, I can't even imagine what this family is enduring. I believe all are invited so any help would be greatly appreciated. Here is the e-mail....

A friend of Kaden's who was on his soccer team and in his Kindergarten class can really use your help. His name is Max and he is fighting an extremely rare and aggressive cancer known as stage 4 rhabdomyosarcoma. His insurance is quickly approaching the lifetime cap of $2M. You may have seen the banners around town for the Mighty Max Event this Friday, October 22nd from 5 to 10 PM (see attached flyer) at the Cardiff Town Center.
I am inviting all of you to please attend and would take your support as a personal favor. 100% of the revenue from the donated proceeds of this event will be used to cover the ongoing monthly medical cost that is not covered by his insurance. This is really hard, watching this little guy go through chemo and he is fighting soooo hard! We don't realize how fortunate we are to have healthy kids until something like this hits close to home. So please come out and have dinner, a drink, or just buy something. It all helps. Hope to see you there.

Don't be shy about sharing this flyer.

Surfboard Shaping Time Again

2010-05-18T19:24:00.000-07:00

I haven't shaped a surfboard now in almost a year. My time in the shaping room has been relegated to making handplanes. I am not complaining, not one bit. I do miss having the time to shape surfboards though. The handplaning business has been doing real good. So good, that I went through my last 10 Paulownia blanks before my new shipment of Paulownia arrived. I even ordered my next shipment, the day my last shipment was sent. So, I am currently out of wood. I can hear the jokes now, so, no need to post em. My next shipment of 20 Paulownia blanks should be arriving friday, with another 50 blanks being milled right now. So, should have enough wood to last a while. During this down time, I figured I would shape myself a surfboard. I've got about 5 blanks sitting on top of my shaping bay, just frothing to meet my planer. It will be a summer board. I am thinking 5'7 x 19 1/4" x 2 1/4". Something of a blend of the "Mushbuster" I shaped for myself last summer and my current Tomo that I love so much. Thinking about putting a Robert's screwdriver tail on it, like the Roberts pictured below. Set up as a quad, but I think I'm gonna have em throw in that 5th box, just for kicks. Lokbox of course. Gonna try the new shorter boxes that Lokbox is now making. Here are the three boards that I plan to blend.

Now thats a Foamball

2010-05-17T13:24:00.000-07:00

OUCH!

2010-05-12T21:15:00.001-07:00

http://www.pezpix.com/

Artificial Reef in India

2010-04-28T21:39:00.000-07:00

So far the best artificial reef footage I have ever seen. I've know a couple places that could really use one of these, or, hell, a bunch of em. Wonder what the sustainability of these things are. Anyway about it, it's a step in the right direction.

Sacred Craft Trip

2010-04-14T15:18:00.000-07:00

We had a great time at the Sacred Craft in Ventura. I got to roll with Quintin for the first time in years. Initially, I was gonna take the family, but the thought of Rebecca having to take care of the three yard-apes alone, while I was away all day at the show, just didn't seem like a good time. So, she suggested my old Mexico Co-pilot go along for the journey. Quintin is a great guy, super mellow, unless someone gets him all riled up. I think thats usually my job. On the way up, I asked how our old friend, "The Devil" was doing. He told me he was on the East Coast tending to some things. At the time, I was thinking how great it would be if he woulda been able to go with. We got up to Ventura, wandered around the campsite, and finally found a suitable site to take over. Nothing too close to the camp hosts, but, not too far from the beach either. We checked in and headed up the the fairgrounds to set-up the booth. After the fairgrounds, we headed over to a burger joint in Ventura for a beer and some grubb. That was something I had been craving for quite a while. This was my weekend off. Rebecca and I have been doing an all Raw lifestyle food thing over the last few months. While it's really not as hard as many think, especially when your wife is great in the kitchen, you still get these cravings for things like burgers and steak fries. That first bite of something warm and substantial was probably one of the top ten things I've ever bitten into in my life. Well worth the wait, but definately not something I will be going back to on a consistant basis, anytime soon. After the burger joint, we stocked up on some wood and headed back to camp. Started a nice fire, then bullshitted the rest of the night. Midway through the BS, Quint got a call, it was El Diablo, he was in PB and was heading up in the morning. Course for him, that means he'll probably be thier around dinnertime. At about, what we thought was 10, we decided to get some sleep. Quint looked at the time, and it wasn't quite what we expected. It was 1am. After working overnight the night before, then staying up all day, and making the trip, I was a little skeptical about how I would feel in the morning. My first day of showing the public what I've been pouring so much time into over the last year, and I'm a little drunk, and hadn't slept in a good 40 hours. Not a good place to be. Quintin knocked on the van at about 6:30am, and we headed out to the beach to have a look. The surf wasn't too great, sideshore, and a touch brown. We went out and Handplaned anyway. Mainly cause we needed to wash the stench off of the night before. It was a bit cold, and backwashing pretty bad. I got launched on my first wave into the flats. Did a huge bodyflop and for the first time, felt a bit of pain on impact. We finished up with a nice warm shower at the campgrounds and headed off to the show. The show was a good time. Probably the best consumer show around. I think I would rather be a particpant of Sacred Craft, ten time over any ASR event. Lots of cool people, lots of great products. El Diablo showed up around 2, which for him is pretty good. He and Quint went to get a burrito after the show ended for the day. I went back to camp. Shoulda been a quick trip for them, but with The Devil around, you never know what's gonna happen. 3 hours later, and on my last piece of firewood, they finally got back. Apparently they got lost on some freeways, funny thing about that, you never had to get on the freeway. The rest of the evening was pretty similar, except now we had Rich to entertain us. I woke up early the next morning, walked down to the beach alone and watched a bit. One guy out. Way cleaner than the day before. Lefts mushing on the outside then reforming and jacking and peeling on the inside all the way to the shorepound. I wasn't motivated at all. The surf was way better and I just sat watching, letting time tick away. Eventually I garnered the energy. Jogged back to the campsite and saw Quint walking back from the bathroom. I was already turning our wetsuits inside out. He just looked at me, like, "are you really gonna make me do this?" He's a troooper. We headed back down and had another planing session. There were now 3 guys out. Since it was pretty much breaking then backing off on the outside, I just sat about 30 yards inside of them. Caught a couple decent ones. A set wave came and one of the three guys caught it. I had to get out of his way, and I read the wave differently than he did. In my opinion, he should been cutting back almost right from the takeoff. So I swam toward the shoulder. Apparently he didn't think so. He he bottom turned and although he really didn't come close to me, he had a world of shit to say. Told me I was right in his way, where he was gonna hit the lip. I just looked at him in amazement, and said, "What lip?" He didn't quite like that response and got all grumpy, his buddy's had a few things to say also. I just shrugged it off. They told me to bail, which, eventually I did float down to the next peak, where Quint was, but, not before I maintained my presence for a good twenty minutes, and caught some more good ones. It's funny, cause I respect them and their local spot, but, when your gonna call someone out, make sure you know what you are saying. I didn't see one of em hit the lip the whole session, and they definately weren't killing it. Pretty much my age, but alot stiffer. Riding the wrong boards for the surf. They could surf, don't get me wrong, but nothing on any type of impressive level. It's just goes back to that totem pole thing. They had no idea Quint and I have surfed our whole lives, and could honestly run circles around them on a board. All they saw were two guys floating around the line-up, that might possibly get in thier way, especially if they misjudged another wave. After that verbal exchange, we continued to get some of the better Handplane waves I've had all winter. Just standing up perfectly on the inside sandbar and racing down the line. Such a great way to start off the day, and not ruined at all by the grumpy locals. After our session, we rushed back to camp, broke everything down, woke up the Devil, had 2 beers, then headed off to the show for the final day. As for the rest of the show, it went well. Met lots of good people, had a great response to the handplanes, shaped a plane in the shaping booth, and most importantly finished off all the cookies. I have to thanks my wife, Rebecca, for spending her thursday evening baking 3 huge trays full of cookies for the show. People loved em, and I think they will be a part of all future gatherings. Thanks to all that came by, and we'll see you in Del Mar.

Derek Hynd Finless at Noosa

2010-04-14T13:16:00.000-07:00

I hate to steal from a post over at the ERBB, but, this is some of the most unreal, well at least different, surfing I have seen in a long time. The vid will be gone in a few weeks at ERBB and lost into who knows where. Man that stoopid place needs a better search engine. But, the vid will be here for quite some time. Regarding the vid, in most cases, I'm almost convinced that the spins he is doing is more for function than other. It seems whenever he starts to lose hold, ie. spin out, he turns it into a spin until he catches an edge and continues down the line. Pretty neat stuff if you ask me.

Brownfish Handplanes at Sacred Craft Ventura

2010-04-06T13:28:00.000-07:00

Brownfish Handplanes will be having a booth at the Sacred Craft Expo this coming weekend, April 10 and 11, in Ventura. I will also be shaping a Handplane in the Shaping Bay at 12:30pm on Sunday. Feel free to stop by and talk handplanes or anything else on your mind. If I've shaped you a handplane in the past, would love to hear your stories. Please introduce yourselves. As Handplanes aren't the most cumbersome objects, I will have some comfy chairs to rest your feet after perusing the other fine craft on display at the show. My wife will also be making some homemade chocolate chip cookies for any of you that are into that kind of thing. The event will be held at the Ventura County fairgrounds. Hours are 10am-6pm on Saturday and 10am-4pm on Sunday. Hope to see you all their.

For more info, Click here: 2010 Sacred Craft Ventura

2010-04-05T12:22:00.003-07:00

What I lack

2010-03-30T09:41:00.000-07:00

I've always been pretty good at most things I've tried in life, BUT, I've never been a very creative person. I've watched people all around me with this incredible creative zen. My wife's a good example. They throw these great, creative things together with so little effort. Then stress about if it's good enough. But me, not so much. When I started making surfboards as a hobby, thats pretty much what it was. I wanted to learn to make them myself. To test not only my creativity, but also my focus. I usually hang in thier for about 80%, but then somehow loose focus on the rest. When making surfboards, that last bit of focus it what really counts. My woodworking and shop tool skills hit their plateau in 7th woodshop. Since then, I could cut a piece of wood if I had to, or rig something up real good, but accuracy was never quite my specialty. So, it's surprising to me to occasionally get, or find, pictures of stuff laying around that I made for others. Kind of fulfilling. Here is a pic I found today of a board and handplane I made for some kind people in the past.

Brownfish Handplane Models

2010-03-22T08:42:00.000-07:00

I have finally gotten around to getting pictures of all the specific models I am making. They will are available for custom order now. South Coast Windansea Surfshop in Pacific Beach, CA should be getting thier first run of boards in less than two weeks. Surfy Surfy Surf Shop will be opening on May 1st in Leucadia, CA. They will also have stock boards available. Both shops will have a demo if you are interested in trying a Handplane out. Check em out at Brownfish Handplanes to review the models and more pics. Thanks for all your support and have a great week. G

Matuse Sample Sale

2010-03-08T12:45:00.000-08:00

Shut Down

2010-02-26T14:53:00.000-08:00

I grew up camping. Well, I guess thats not necessarily true. My parents took us kids camping at the Colorado river once when we were kids. Got us set-up real nice like, next to a mosquito swarm. We lasted one night, got bitten to hell, and were out of thier. That was the last and only camping trip I went on with my parents.

When I started surfing, my friends and I used to go camp at the state beach campgrounds. As long as you brought a note from your parents, you were good. Not sure if that is still the case, but, we had some fun times. Rob Miller drunk under the staircase at South Carlsbad, is probably the highlight of those trips. Surf was always good, or, I just didn't surf well enough to realize what was good, and what wasn't.

Those trips progressed into lots and lots of camping trips to Mexico in my 20's and early 30's. Seems every other or third weekend I was heading down. Even got to the point where I was partners on a trailer about 4 hours in. Man, those were some incredible times. I can honestly say, that, on those trips, the surf was fun. In the end though, surfing is just a bonus. It's more about the adventure. Getting away. If you get some surf on top of that, well, that just makes it that much better.

It's finally getting to the point where taking the kids camping is enjoyable. They are old enough now where they can somewhat, take care of themselves. Prior to now, camping was more of a chore than fun. Constantly on the run, constantly watching, constantly worrying. We'd get home from a camping trip and feel completely exhausted.

We've got a good percentage of the next 4 months set up with camping trips. One about every 3-4 weeks. Going to the desert during the flower bloom in early April. Ventura in April. Yosemite in early May. Plus a few other one nighters dispersed between.

Our season was supposed to start off at San Elijo in two weeks. An easy, close trip to get the season rolling. I had planned this trip about 6 months ago. You kind of have to. In order to get a good spot at San Elijo, you have to be on the internets at a certain time, six months in advance. I had the perfect spot picked out. I've eyed that spot my whole life. Always wanted to be sitting at the end of the cul-de-sac, facing the left. Basically a chain link fence separating you and the water. Spot 62. It's always taken. The most in-demand spot in the park. I have never got to camp in it, or even around it. Those cul-de-sac spots are hard to come by. Last year or the year before, they closed down spot 63 due to it somewhat falling into the ocean. A safety hazard. They made it much smaller, and turned it in to a bike/hike spot. So, six months ago, I sat at the computer, all logged in and ready. The time came and I furiously started hitting buttons. I FUCKING GOT IT. Two nights, starting Friday, March 19. Perfect way to start our camping season. I was stoked.

I've watched all winter long. The storms. The waves. The rocks. The wall that protects the campground. All slowly deteriorating. I just got the call. Reserve America. Spot 62 has now been closed forever, due to safety concerns. Not only that, they can't even get us into the park that weekend, or any other for the next six months. Sure we can show up and hope somebody cancels, but, thats alot of work with three little ones. Yea, they are gonna give us a full refund, but, once again, I am left wanting...

In The News

2010-02-23T13:12:00.000-08:00

I have had a lot of support over the last few years. My wife being first of course. Good friends, both that I grew up with, and have met over time. Even some good internet friends. Yea, sounds kinda wierd, but, I have to admit, I've met some pretty quality people that I woulda never come in contact with, had it not been for the internets. The guys at Matuse have also done a shitload for me. I met them through a mutual friend and since then our relationship has been great. Recently they have done a few new things to add to their wetsuit line. They have so graciously become my first retail account for Handplanes. I am building an exclusive model just for them. They also have Jon Wegener, of the Wegener Family fame, building Alaia's for em. If you haven't checked out their site, they've got all kinds of new stuff going on. New downloads, news, press, and a pretty incredible selection of Video's that could keep you pretty busy for an afternoon. Check it all out at:

MATUSE

Shit that Don't belong at the Beach

2010-02-22T10:44:00.000-08:00

Recently there has been a problem in the lot. It kinda makes things a little bit uncomfortable. Well, not too much, but, enough. It seems that one of the guys down at the beach, invested a lump of money with another. Both lost. Now one is sending out e-mails and hanging up posters on his truck in the lot. Attacking the other. I think this is just plain wrong. Yea, it's sad that you lost, but investing money is like going to Vegas. You don't invest unless you can afford to lose it. Doesn't matter how stable it seams. If you aren't willing to lose anything, then put it in the bank, in increments less than 100K, and shut the fuck up. End of story. It's kind of sad, because both of these people, I consider my friends. Both good people that I truly believe wouldn't maliciously wrong another person. It's time to grow up. Leave us out of it. Take care of your business at home and come to the beach with a smile. Surf, drink your coffee, then leave the same way that you came.

I am a Freak

2010-02-12T08:54:00.000-08:00

When it comes to the Winter Olympics. I'm not so much a sports fan. Yea, I'll turn the Chargers game on if I happen to be home and not doin much. Usually during the second half. I also take the kids to the occasional Padres game. I was pretty into sports growing up, well, at least until 15 when I started surfing. I grew up in a hotbed of baseball talent. I had some great times and sometimes regret not keeping my skills up. Though with the dynamics of surfing, you don't really have the time to make regular practices and/or games. My regrets are short lived when I consider what surfing has really brought me. At 41, I'm still as stoked as I ever was. Surfing wasn't an easy sport for me to get into. It wasn't handed to me by any means. We lived quite a ways from the beach. Speaking of the beach, my parents, who I love dearly and have been nothing but supportive my whole life, thought that going to the beach was a day on the bay, in the middle of summer. The only waves generated by boat wakes from the gearheads speeding by. I remember coming home from those annual trips from the bay, exhausted and roasted. Those were the days of No Sunscreen. And those of you who have met me will confirm, I ain't no bronzed, chiselled speciman. I'm a true white boy. Actually with a little red tint most of the time. Recovering from those burns took some days, and some pain. Back to surfing. I was lucky to meet some great guys that were in the same boat as me. We had to drive to go surfing. Usually we'd plan while at school. A buck a piece for gas was enough to get our VW bugs over the hill. We surfed almost daily. Sometimes making two treks over the hill in the same day. We surfed anywhere from Cottons to IB, but, spent a good percentage of our days at OBJ or Cardiff. We were lucky to be able to surf so many different types of waves. While we grew to truly hate where our parents chose to bring us up, I am truly grateful today. If I were spoonfed surfing and grew up living on the beach, much like my kids are, I would've turned out, well, lets just say, not so good. Too much influence. Too much of everything. We dreamed of being that sponsored kid, our age, that we'd see on the beach everyday. Killing it out in the line-up, then getting all the girls on the beach. That wasn't our lot in life. I occasionally run into those guys that I wished I was when I was a teenager. They, well, let's just say, aren't as lucky as me. Most don't surf much anymore and aren't really doing too much with thier lives. Many have been in and out of Rehab and such. I'm pretty sure I would have been one of em, had my lot been like theirs. So, I am grateful. Grateful for the friends that I still surf with on an almost daily basis. Grateful for the times we had and endured, to be able to participate in this lifestlye/sport/thing, or whatever you want to call it. Grateful for the many things I still have to look forward to in and around the ocean. When I was 15, one of the most Ironic statements that anyone has ever said to me came. It was my baseball coach. He was a great man. A great coach. I had been missing practices to go surfing. I was his shortstop. Someone he had groomed to be his star. He said to me, "You will never get out of surfing, what you have the potential to get out of baseball." I look around these days. A good percentage of the guys I played ball with were drafted. Actually, 7 of the 9 starters on our High School team. Which is pretty unbelievable. Of those 7 that were drafted, not one is playing ball anymore. I on the other hand, am still surfing on an almost daily basis. Have seen the world through surfing, and look forward to spending as much time in the water as possible until the day I die.

So, in short, or not so short, I don't really watch sports too much, but, I frickin LOVE the Olympics, especially the Winter Olympics. Something about the sports not being so mainstream really gets me going. These people put so much time into their craft, to be the best in the world, with very little payoff in the end. No six or seven figure lifetime contract, well a few, but generally, just that drive to accomplish something meaningful in life. I watch them walk into that stadium and just dream about being that good at something. To have endured so much to get to this point. I respect them, and look forward to the next two weeks. Long nights staying up past midnight, then getting up early to surf or work, all to repeat again.

He Forgot to Mention ...

2010-02-09T07:21:00.000-08:00

Bodysurfers, Handplaners, bodyboarders, matt riders, etc. in his pecking order. Personally, I think they fit right after surfers, may even at the same level if they really know what they are doing, know the line-up well, and know positioning. By this picture that I posted over at Handplane Goodness, probably not the case though. NO FUCKING RESPECT.

The Pecking Order

2010-02-08T05:24:00.000-08:00

This was written in a post on Stand Up Zone BB by Tom English. He is one of my friends that has gone the way of the SUP. He's is a a really good surfer, but, now pretty much only rides an SUP. Out of all the SUP guys I have ever met, he is by far the nicest and most courteous. Still a stoked grom. Plus, he was doing it for 2-3 years before the craze started. He's taken a lot of the photo's that I post on this blog. Always takes photo's of everyone when he's not surfing, then posts em on his website for everyone to download. He's a good guy, and he's got it right when it comes to the whole SUP thing. Here is his list of the pecking order:

The pecking order is (in order of who get's the waves they want:

1 - Duke K

2 - Phil Edwards

3 - Micky Dora

4 - Gerry Lopez (and Ron House)

5 - Your shaper

6 - Oldest local

7 - Oldest Local who still pulls into barrels

8 - Any shortboarder

9 - Any Longboarder

10- Tourist

11 - SUP

13- Costco SUP

The Link to Stand Up Zone, where he posted it:

The Stand-up Zone - Pecking Order

And a link to check out his site and some of the photos:

Aloha Wealth Management Photos

Here is a previously posted pic of him and I ready for a fiver:

so you wanna be a surfer

2010-02-02T19:38:00.000-08:00

so you wanna be a surfer
by troy dockins
SMOKEBOX

So you wanna be a surfer...

Lessons are stupid...here's what you do...

It's February...so it's warming up soon, that's good...

As soon as it does, sell everything...leave your wife, abandon the kids...they'll be fine, kids are adaptable and your wife will hook up with someone...

Go find an isolated cove...ideally somewhere near a good sized river mouth...you'll need to go to the Washington Coast or even better BC or Alaska...Oregon is too developed... bring a jacket...

Either find a nice little cave or build a driftwood structure...or a split level type deal, whatever works...I advise set up to be well above the high tide line or...you know what!

Anyway, once you’re settled in...start looking for a suitable driftwood log from which to hand fashion your logger board...a huge plank is acceptable, but an actual huge ass log is harder and, therefore, better...

You may have to weather a few spring storms before you find the right piece of wood...be patient...pray for heavy rains and high winds...also kill any sea lions or other wildlife you come across...do not admire their majestic beauty...kill them and dry their meat...you will also want to fashion a sea lion wetsuit...this is risky as it will attract sharks, but that's better than freezing your gonads off...

Once you have selected your timber you will need to transport it beyond high tide...this will be hard as it probably will weigh alot...a system of levers and pulleys fashioned from seal gut may help...if you aren't handy, you are screwed...if you get stuck, think "What would McGyver do?"...that usually works...

You will need to fashion tools for shaping your board...if you have never made stone tools before you may be surprised at how difficult it is...however, if a caveman could do it, so can you...anyway it will require much chipping and probably a smashed digit or two...but once you have that cutting edge you are practically home free...

Sidebar: If you happen to produce an axe head...you could lash it to a stout piece of wood and make a hatchet...cut that log down a bit and it may be easier to move...if you weren't reading ahead and have already moved the log I apologize for not mentioning it earlier ...again, animal parts are good for rope and stuff...if some flotsam floats in, like nylon rope or something? I suppose you could use it but it kinda affects the purity and achievement of becoming a surfer...y'know?

Anyway, once you have the log in place start chipping away...don't worry about the shape too much right now...you have weeks, probably months, of shaping ahead of you... remember, kill all animals...curious chipmunks, annoying seagull, unsuspecting dogs and their owners...don't eat the owners, that's cannibalism...but human skulls do make nice mugs...

Depending on how quickly you work, you could potentially have a roughed out shape sometime in the fall...you'll want to fashion a hand plane at this point, and in true surfer fashion, I can't in good conscience tell you how to do that...you'll need to figure it out on your own...remember to kill animals...you can eat seabirds and other sea life that washes up too...you'll get used to the smell...

Sidebar: You can use fire to speed your wood removal...char the log and remove the burnt material as you go...be careful not to burn too much away...this will also serve to temper, dry and harden your "stick"...get it? Stick, as in log? Anyway, hopefully you read ahead and got this tip before you stupidly chipped all the wood away by hand...

Once you have your planer you are ready for final shaping...go for volume and function over style...you don't need a swallow tail or channels or a kick tail...you just want a straight plank...a hull...that will float and you can paddle...although symmetry and style do count for something...you want people to know you're a surfer, right?

Sidebar: Rough stones work pretty good as grinder/sandpaper because you'll want the wood to be as smooth as possible...don't get me wrong you'll probably get some hellacious slivers...but, that's part of the price you pay...you knew the risks...

Once your board is finished it'll still probably be so frickin' heavy you can't even move it...although you'll probably be pretty burly by now from all of the hard work...although, if you haven't been taking regular swims and running underwater with heavy stones for a few months now, you might want to start...practice holding your breath as you walk around until you pass out...that's good practice...

Seal your board by rubbing it with fat from all the animals you caught...you'll probably need to rub it alot...probably to the point where you skin is raw and you have open wounds...surfing is not for the weak of heart...you'll get calluses eventually...

Well, if you can get your board into the water that is a big plus...however, it is winter now and the surf is likely to be pretty big...you need to practice paddling...you probably won't make it out until spring or if you have an unusually small day...but this is an excellent opportunity for conditioning...be careful, getting hit with a board that weighs several hundred pounds in the surf is no picnic...but don't be a kook, hang on to your board at all times...ditching your plank is unacceptable...take your lumps, be a man...a surfer man...

Sidebar: You should have been working on your sealskin wetsuit this whole time...if you haven't, you have really blown it...I almost would recommend bagging it and heading back to society...you've certainly lost my respect...if you have been working on it, kudos to you!

Once you are able to get your board outside the surf line I suggest several long distance conditioning paddles...if there are any offshore islands I recommend paddling out to them...any animals living there are unfamiliar with surfers and you can kill them all...eat lunch there...pile as much as you can onto the board and return to the beach...if, by the offhand chance, you catch a wave...do not stand up...you are not ready...

By summer the waves will have gotten a bit smaller and you are ready to work on 'surfing' your board...paddle out...turn your board and see if you can catch a wave...I would belly ride, knee ride and then attempt to stand...in that order...Pretty much just ride the whitewater straight in...I know it's the mark of a rank beginner...but you're not a surfer yet, anyway...

Once you can catch waves and have figured out how stand up and avoid losing your board...because, remember...under no circumstances is it acceptable for you to lose your board except in the heaviest of circumstances...and no kook cord either...there's a reason I haven't mentioned making one...a) your leg would be dislocated or ripped from your body b) they're gay...

So anyway, your almost there...I forgot...there's also knee paddling, if you didn't figure this out and have been paddling on your belly this whole time...I am laughing at you!...sorry, but I am...

There are many subtleties that you will develop as you progress over the next few years in your cove...you can drag a foot and turn your board...to stay in the 'curl'...you can 'walk the nose'...or perform the 'drop knee turn'...you may even score a 'tube ride'...and since you are learning in complete isolation...you may develop tricks unknown to even ancient
Polynesia...pretty cool, huh?

In closing, a few tips...it is alright to be stoked, just don't overdo it...don't hoot on every wave, only the ones that warrant it...don't surf with your legs all spread out, or with your butt sticking out...don't wave your arms for balance, that just looks kooky...you've mastered the basic, now it's time to work on your style...it should be smooth, soulful and
unforced...

Finally, the plank works best on a select type of wave...the slow roller...you'll probably want to work on a variety of boards...a short board, a gun, maybe even a swallowtail or a twin keeled fish!...you've got alot of work ahead of you...start shaping and you're a surfer now...welcome

Just stay far away from my home break...

MATUSE HOODLESS TUMO FRONTZIP

2010-02-02T17:46:00.000-08:00

It has been a long time coming. The first prototypes are now on the streets being tested for a release next fall. The first offering will be 4/3/2 with plans on a 3/2/2 later in the season or the following winter. A new zipper, made specially for these suits in Germany, is prophesized to become the standard for wetsuits in the future. Only time will tell. I'm hoping to get my hands on one of these in the near future, if god loves me, with a full report to follow. Here are some pics of Bret Howard putting it throught it's very first testing.

Photos courtesy of Doug Moranville.

See more here: Matuse Hoodless Tumo Frontzip

[180° SOUTH]

2010-02-01T19:03:00.000-08:00

[180° SOUTH]

Heading to Hawaii

2010-01-28T22:02:00.000-08:00

These three Handplanes are heading to Hawaii for "Da Hui/Hawaii State Bodysurfing Association Shorebreak Slam at Waimea Bay" next week-end and/or the following. Hopefully they will get some good use out of them. More pics at Handplane Goodness

It's the End

2010-01-25T04:55:00.000-08:00

Well, it actually depends on which way you look at it. My prediction is that, if you thought last summer was a mess dealing with SUP's, this summer is going to be a catastrophe. With Costco now offering these things up for $429, including paddle and leash, it is now not a sport that people get sticker shock when they want to start up. I would say that, although the surf has been incredibly fun over the last 6 weeks or so, the SUP's have been increasingly frustrating. Hopefully the expected onslaught of SUK's will spur a definitive push to have these things moved into restricted zones and out of surf zones. There is now a Petition being started by Joel Tudor and Justin Phillips (The Justin) to have SUP's permenently removed from the line-up at Cardiff Reef. While I feel bad for the few good guys that I consider my friends that SUP, overall I am all for this. I will be updating the progress of this movement and let you know where to sign, if interested.

WELCOME TO INNERSECTION

2010-01-24T07:27:00.000-08:00

This is a surf contest. A worldwide forum for the year’s best individual surf sections.

Through this site, 20 surfers will earn spots on Taylor Steele’s next high-performance surf movie.

You will decide which ones.

Who will be the final section? The decision is in your hands.

That’s the competition. But there’s more to it than that. Innersection is a showcase for surfers and filmmakers; a workshop for the art of the surf section, with interviews, instructional materials and behind the scenes action; a home for the newest maneuvers, the best swells and the latest music.

Sure, you get to sit up in the judges’ tower, but you’re also invited to the after party.

Here’s How It Works:

◦The contest runs in four Cycles.

◦Each cycle is two months long.

◦First Cycle begins March 1st.

◦Second begins May 1st. Third: July 1st. Fourth: Sept. 1st.

◦All sections must be uploaded in the first week of the cycle.

◦All sections approved sections will be open to viewing and rating by Innersetction.tv members.

◦The Top Ten member rated sections will open to Final Rating in the last week of the cycle.

◦Five of the Top Ten sections will qualify for the final DVD.

◦Four cycles, starting March 1st. Five qualifiers advance from each cycle. Twenty sections qualify for the final judging and DVD.

◦Final judging will take place in the first week of December, 2010.

◦Innersection DVD will appear shortly afterwards in surf shops, direct download and iTunes formats.

CHECK IT OUT HERE: Innersection TV

GOODNESS TEASER

2010-01-14T07:55:00.000-08:00

MORE PICS HERE

The White Diamond/Dumpster Diver Conspiracy Video

2010-01-07T07:10:00.000-08:00

A fews months ago Surfing Magazine did an article on Dane Reynolds. They included a video which showed Dane riding a Roberts White Diamond. Channel Islands forced Surfing Magazine to yank the video within an hour of when it was posted. They subsequently then developed the Dumpster Diver surfboard which has an incredible resemblance to the Roberts White Diamond. Along with a contrived story regarding finding some EPS foam in the Dumpster and developing the design. One fine young gentlemen burned the video that CI didn't want you to see to his hard drive. Here is said video, and if you want one of these types of boards, Go to Roberts for one:

http://www.robertssurf.com/

Local Slab

2009-12-29T16:31:00.000-08:00

I've spoken of the Local Slab quite often in this blog. It's a fun wave. Can get super hectic. Especially when doing its thing. The take off spot is a 10 foot square, and 20+ guys that know the wave well, are all battling for the perfect spot to sit. Two feet off and you're toast. Even if you are in the right spot, you're constantly butting shoulders or arms with others, while angling and air dropping into and hopefully under the lip. There are about 5 guys that surf it regularly that have it truly wired. They grew up surfing it and now it's pretty much second nature for them. I'm blown away at what those guys make. Also, how easy they make it look. Here is a sequence of who I would consider the King. Yea, there are guys who have surfed it better, or more agressively. Day in, Day out, Todd Thornton is always the guy in the spot.

A New Tradition Begins

2009-12-24T08:10:00.000-08:00

No tree. Well, not yet. Sounds kinds odd, I know. This year we have yet to put up the Christmas Tree. Yea, we've heard about it. The grems are snapping. No presents wrapped. Yup, none. No wrapped presents to fondle and shake. Sounds kinda Grinch-like. We've got cards and knick-knacks up, but that is about it. This year we've decided to start a new tradition. We start on Christmas Eve. Christmas will be a two day event, starting in about 30 minutes. The tree goes up, all the decorations come out. Still, all the presents will stay out of site until Santa comes tonight. I'm looking forward to all the work that will go into this tradition in the next 36 hours. I can't wait to see the looks on the kids faces tomarrow morning. Hope everyone has a Very Merry Christmas.

This is what it's all about

2009-12-22T08:54:00.000-08:00

Call me a dork, but I still feel this song. 25 years later. Yea, I was 16 at the time, so it was my generation. When I hear this song it makes me forget about all the BS that surrounds Christmas. All the Bakugan's, Nintendo DS's, and even the new shiny surfboards sitting under the tree, that us spoiled brats spend so much time pondering. It reminds me how fortunate every one of us is. That fact that we even have a computer, so we can read someone else's mindless blog babble. So, give a dollar to that guy selling oranges on the offramp (just this one time), drop a toy off at the toy drive, or volunteer at the local homeless kitchen. Have a Merry Christmas and thanks for visiting over the last year.

High Performance Hand Alaia's

2009-12-14T14:01:00.000-08:00

Well, not really. Thats just what "The Justin" calls em. He thinks it would get the Alaia Community all riled up if we call em that. These are all ready for shipping and I rarely have this many at the same time, so I figured I'd take the opportunity for some photo's. On another note, but not really, remember to take your fins out of your truck and put them in the family cruiser whenever you've got to drop the gremlins off at school, prior to sliding. Today, I forgot. Surf was pretty fun, but so fucking perfect for High Performance Hand Alaia'ing. Left Wanting once again.

One Turn

2009-12-08T07:56:00.000-08:00

I like a lot of things about surfing. I love to Shortboard, longboard, Handplane, fish (thats surfing, not the boring rod and pole thing), and I occasionally find a day when I watch the SUK's and think that it is the best board for the conditions. I also enjoy watching Pro Contests. It helps me keep irrational dreams alive. To be that good at one thing, one of the best, all of us have dreamed at some point in our lives that we could experience that. It keeps us alive. Of course it's better to be good at many things, but that dream is still powerful. Most people seem to lose interest in the pro contest scene in thier 30's, but for me, it's always been inspiring to see what those guys can do, especially under the pressure that they are. It's one thing for someone to boost a sick air when out freesurfing, but quite another when their are so many things riding on them sticking it. Pro surfing has been bumped up a few notches in the last few years. You play by the Damian Hardman rulebook, and in these days you'll make it no where near the top 100. You do well, you keep going, you keep your sponsors, you keep traveling the world on someone else's dime. You flail, and you gots to start thinking about what you are really gonna do with your life. It's been well publiziced lately how many of the younger guys are having a problem with finding/keeping sponsors in this economy. It's hard to feel sorry for em when so many people are out of jobs and so many are being sent back to a new war. With that, everyone has their own set of circumstances to grow by. One may learn about life from living six months in a fox hole, while another may become a good person by having to carry a six board coffin through the airport after surfing one heat in crumbly onshore surf. (oh wait, onshore is the new offshore.) OK he lost in perfect surf. I don't know, maybe that is worse. Regardless, it's all learning. So, where am I going with all this babble. I was watching the Sunset contest last week. It was big and pretty unruly. Not clean at all.

No visions of the perfect MR style wounded gull sweeping turns, connecting the peak to the inside. Just, big, ugly, mad ocean. It's the last qualifying contest of the year. It was in the round of 64 I believe. Jordy Smith was in a heat with 3 other guys. Jordy is already on tour and pretty much in position to stay. One of the other three is on the bubble to qualify. He's gotta keep going or he's gonna have to grind away for another year. Jordy is in second with a minute to go, the other guy that needs the score is in third. He needs a measly 3 point ride to pass Jordy. Basically stand up and make one turn. Seems easy enough. Unless you are talking about huge, unruly Sunset. Seconds tick away and it seems to be pretty much wrapped up. With 10 to go, the guy starts to paddle for a wave, lifts his hands off the rails with less than 2 seconds, stands up, drops in, one average sweep under the lip, wave closes out, and he straightens for the beach. Now we go to commercial. After we watch some spoiled kid pull into a perfect tube in Indo, wearing his 10 way stretch trunks, which happened to make it so he could tweak ever so slightly and pull under the lip, we go back to the scores. 3.7. He moves on. Jordy is out. The qualifier needed to get at least get third in his next heat to qualify for the tour. I didn't stay to watch and see if he did. To me the point was made. It could have went the other way. I sat and pondered this for a while. What it would be like to have your whole world turned upside down within a matter of seconds. I guess it's all happened to us to some extent. Some more than others. The one that comes to mind is the guy who recently lost his wife and two young daughters when the military plane took out his house.

Such a catastrophe. Everyone has their horrors, this guy enough to fill a stadium. I hope that someday he will find something in this that helps him. For me, much like the fledgling qualifier above, it all happened in "One Turn". It wasn't surfing, it was skiing. 20+ years ago. But, thats another story all together.

Sacrificial Lambs

2009-11-25T10:40:00.000-08:00

Yes, that would be us. Like when you paddle in after waiting an extended peroid, for that one last set wave. Only to watch it peel all the way through the inside, once you've gotten out. We have been making Thanksgiving dinner for 12+ people for the last 10 years. This year, we decided that we wanted to do something different. In order to get out of the family obligations, we planned a camping trip out to the desert. Wanted to show the gremlins something a little different than sand and salt water. Maybe some snakes and lizards. Cactus, flowers, and most importantly some SMORES. They love the SMORES. So, tomarrow we head east for a few days and nights. The hardest part about this trip isn't the camping part, the preparation, the wondering and worrying if we will be able to entertain the kids, or even better, if they will entertain themselves. The hardest part is the fact that the surf just may be epic. Doubtful that it will be truly epic, but, probably pretty damn good. Swell is supposed to be building almost the same time we will be pulling out. It's supposed to lose most of it's steam, right as we will be returning. It's not just the swell though. The weather is supposed to be pretty much as good as it gets around this time of year. Warm, offshore, without a cloud in the sky. We could stay home. 4 days off work. No big dinner to make. Surf all day. A nice mini staycation. With the commitments we've made, it probably wouldn't be prudent. So, we are the designated Sacrificial Lambs for all of you. Please don't leave town. Don't go on Mountain Bike trips, or early snowboard trips, those can be done when the surf sucks. Stay, have a surf, catch all the ones that we might have been on. Enjoy yourselves and take advantage of the reason you live near the Ocean.

Dane

2009-11-21T21:59:00.001-08:00

So many things I love about this photo

3 in a Row

2009-11-15T23:28:00.000-08:00

Last weekend I had some of the best surf I've had in quite some time. I missed Saturday due to soccer obligation (last games of the season, woohoo). Sunday, drove across the bridge to clean overhead lines stacking up on the horizon. Pulled up, fed the kids some grub, and watched wave after wave peel from the peak, regroup in the middle, then rocket down the line in the shorebreak. Plenty of great rides. Lots of smiles. Rebecca soon got out of the water, and I gotta say, there is nothing better than seeing your wife have shit eating grin walking up the beach. Paddled out on the GH twinny that Rebecca bought me for my birthday, and preceded to catch wave after clean wave. Well overhead. It was pretty crowded, but luckily most of the guys that were catching the good ones on bigger boards, would call me into waves after they passed by, usually leaving me plenty of pocket room. Plus, they would always kick out before the better inside section. Monday rolled around and my expectations weren't that high. Two days in a row of good surf? Couldn't happen. Plus the buoy numbers seemed to be a little smaller. Well I was wrong. It was a touch smaller, still overhead, but even cleaner than the day before. Shifted over to the ledgier part of the reef, and pretty much got a few of the best barrels I've gotten in a few years. Crowd was much more mellow, and the rotation was working well. Tuesday. Nah, couldn't happen. Not 3 in a row. Tuesday we (Rebecca and I, no kids) pulled up to the reef to another perfect weather day. For the first time in a while, we could surf together. We were heading out of town later in the day, but had the morning off, and the kids in school. We've had bad luck over the last year on our rare surf days. Usually the surf is real small, or blown out. Can't actually remember the last time we surfed together when it was good. Just might have been pre-kids. Our session started out pretty slow. It was an incredibly beautiful day, but the surf had dropped and changed directions a bit. Surf PE was in full force. The crowd was thick. We paddled out together, and stayed on the south side. From the lot, there seemed to be some fun looking waves breaking on the middle and reeling through the inside. When I got out, I couldn't seem to find them. I ended up sitting outside with the rest of the pack. 30 minutes went by, still no wave ridden. Then something wierd happened. People started to drift. Some got out for work or school. Some paddled over to the other side of the reef. Before we knew it, we were the only two sitting at the peak on that side of the reef. Waves started coming. Head high, fun, a little softer on the outside, but would reform into some great inside sections. We traded off wave for wave for about an hour. Sharing many during that time as well. One of the best sessions of the year, not because it was epic, or even as good as the prior two days, but because it was pretty much just us.

Here a few picks Tom English shot of me on Sunday:

I remember this last little section. Remember watching it set-up, remember waiting for it, stalling, stalling, stalling. I remember the view and how many I've blown recently. Remember thinking to myself, "No way I ain't coming out of this one." Luckily, I did.

Confrontation with a Legend

2009-11-10T00:06:00.000-08:00

I've definately had some confrontations over the years. It all started when I was 16 and some Windansea local took a swing at me for no reason (actually, thats another story all together). I tend to have a bit of a temper in the water sometimes. Rarely on land. If there was another step under rarely, I'd probably go with that one. In the water, it's different. Usually doesn't have much to do with what really happened in the water. Some days someone could burn me multiple times and I could give a shit. Some days not so much. It usually has to do with what's going on in my life, if I slept well, or if the gremlins were driving me crazy. I watch my best friend of many years surf all the time. So even keeled. Always in control. In 25 years, I've never seen him lose his temper in the water. Never even heard him yell. I respect that a lot. It's not me, but sometimes I wish it were. Whether right or wrong, confrontations never really turn out too good. Even if you feel you came out on top, you still feel like shit, and it pretty much screws up the rest of your session. One caveot is that I have ended up meeting some great people that I got into confrontations with. Carter, Dan, Uncle Rick. Somehow our lives just collided at the wrong times. Luckily, we got through it, and became friends.

Recently there was an occurance with a legend. It actually didn't even involve me. Well, indirectly. I was on the beach watching. It was a small crumbly day. Windswell. Close intervals. Hardly worth surfing. Nevertheless, it was crowded. Something about those days seem to bring out the crowds. The kinda crowds that can be dangerous. My wife, Rebecca, took off on a wave at the peak, someone took off on the shoulder, almost directly on top of her, as she was coming down the line. She fell and lost her board. She swam over to her board, grabbed the tail, just in time for the next wave to be breaking. The Legend was on it. And yes, he is truly a legend. Her board pivoted up as she held onto the tail, and hit him in the side of the upper body and head. Not hard enough to hurt, but definately enough to be felt. The sad thing is, he had plenty of time to read the wave and turn out of the way, instead he decided to hold his line. He could have easily avoided the whole mess. I'm a huge stressor of etiquitte, and how it is the person in the waters responsibility to get out of the way of the person coming down the line. Sometimes, it just isn't possible. This was one of those times. This legend tends to be a hot head. At 62, he's probably yelled at more people in North San Diego than any other person I've seen. We tend to avoid him in the water as much as possible. He is still a great surfer. I would say, probably the best 62 year old surfer alive. One of the best surfers to ever live. Always a stand-out at any age. So, he paddles back out and yells at Rebecca. I'm watching this whole thing from the beach, and I could just tell what was going on. She caught a few more waves and came in. When she got in, she confirmed what I'd thought. I was truly proud of her for getting back into his face and yelling back at him. Another sad thing is that many of the people that we see and talk to at the beach, everyday, were out in the water, so-called friends. They all saw what had happened, and not one of them had the balls to say something during the verbal assault. Oh, they thought they were do-gooders by later telling her how sorry they were that this happened, but still, absolutely no sack. Is your place on the beach that important? Really? Fuckers.

Back to the legend, He's had some problems in the last few years and just started getting back in the water a few months ago. It was good to see him back in the water, but, thoughts of the old times always sat in the back of my mind. He's had 3 confrontations with people that surf their everyday, just in the last two weeks. These are the same people he hangs out with, well, at least when he is their. All nice, good natured guys. When I think back, I don't think I've ever seen one of em in a confrontation in the last 8 years. He comes in soon after Rebecca, and heads up the beach for the typical coffee talk. This whole time, i'm thinking, "Should I just let this go?" Is it OK for someone to yell at your wife for a misfortunate accident. One that could be avoided at that. After contemplating for a while, I decided that the right thing to do was to have a talk with him. The real test for me, was to do it as calmly as possible. I walked down the beach, asked him if I could have a word with him. He came over, and I calmly explained the situation. He said that it wasn't his fault, what if it would have hit him in the head? What if he needed to get stitches, or got knocked out? I explained to him that it was an accident. Accidents due happen. She got burned, was trying to recover her board, windswell, close intervals, pretty much everything. Tried to draw it out as clearly as possible, as calmly as possible, so that he could truly understand the situation. That yelling at her, probably wasn't the best reaction. His response, still not his fault, he shouldn't have to deal with it. He didn't get it, the whole time his face was getting redder, his voice louder, his eyes more strained. I asked him if he'd ever made a mistake, his response, "NO. Never." So you're perfect? Well this whole confrontation lasted a good ten minutes. My buddy (mentioned above, who knows me real well) showed up to the beach and actually came down and stood about 15 feet away. I didn't see him or know he was their, but apparently he said I started using my arms a little more, he was their to cover me. Thats a true friend. I never raised my voice, which for me, was a true accomplishment. The whole thing ended with him walking away telling me to "Fuck Off" pretty much at the top of his lungs. I told him I love him too. And it was over. I held my ground and didn't feel bad for doing it. It didn't ruin my day. About 15 minutes later we were sitting at our table talking, up walks the legend. He apologizes to my wife. He didn't realize that she had gotten burned on the wave before which caused her to lose her board. Says that he doesn't want this type of energy between us. We all shake hands and he walks away. Another 10 minutes go by and he comes back. He apologizes to me for talking to me the way he did. Well, guess you could say that his apologies made me feel pretty good. Definatly not wasted energy. From what I hear, nobody has ever heard him apologize for something he did, or someone he yelled at in the water. I know it took a lot for him to come over and apologize. He gained a lot of respect from me that day. Respect that was lost years ago.

Kewarra Jet Bottom Challenge

2009-11-02T05:35:00.000-08:00

My best friend and I got to talking yesterday. I really don't think he appreciates me doing this handplane thing lately. We've surfed together for a good 20+ years. Now, half the time I'm bobbing around the inside looking for some goodness. As I've stated before, we used to watch all the Bystrom Movies when growing up. I forget which movie it was, but it showed the Kewarra Jet bottom boards. We were always intrigued by them. So, the challenge was set to truly test my mediocre wood working skills. I am making a Kewarra Jet Bottom Handplane to try and get him interested in my latest obsession.

Better Off Dead

2009-10-23T07:31:00.000-07:00

Better Off Dead! Thats about the way I felt a year ago. At least weight wise. I was as out of shape as ever. Just look back at the pictures of me riding the Clownfish. I was up to 183. Now, you bigger guys might think that is not bad. At, 5'7, it is. I never want to be that old fat guy. All our lives we are constantly telling ourselves that it's time to start, so that we don't end up a fat longboard has-been that mainly sits on the beach talking story. My kids are still young, I want to be able to play soccer with them, or surf with them (at heavier breaks) when they are older. The thought of one boat trip to the Mentawaii's with the whole family filling the boat. Jumping off and Paddling out at some remote spot, with just my wife and 3 kids, sharing a perfect spinning head high right. I want to have that option. So, about a 10 months ago, I started. Started trying to get in the water as much as possible. Keeping active. Running as much as my schedule will allow. Mainly, eating better. Not necessarily dieting. Eating better. Less portions. Nothing late at night. Decrease the junk. So, after the first installment in the plan, I am down to 148. 35 pounds off, and down to a reasonable weight for my body. Now the key is maintaining it for the rest of my life. Getting back to the song. I have a soundtrack that I play while running. Mostly made up of songs that remind me of surfing. I know if I get to "Better Off Dead," then I've had a good long run. It always inspires me to make it up that last hill, not only make it up, but with a little zest.

CNN and Surfing

2009-10-15T05:41:00.000-07:00

How to link em. Well for me, it just became a little easier. CNN/Money Magazine just announced their best job list for 2009. I was driving to work the other day and almost spit up my coffee, when it was announced that my profession was named 2nd on that list. For years we have been know as the bastard children of Medicine. I mean, hell, the name itself implies that we are nothing more than the help. In truth, that is the case. Generally though, unless you've experience the work of a PA in the past, the name pretty much implies that you went to a couple month course and learned how to draw blood, or take a blood pressure. Plus, with the close relation to the name "Medical Assistant," (which is pretty much what you get when you take that 2 month course), the haziness becomes even more prevalent. Now days when people ask what I do, I usually try and move on as quickly as possible. No longer do I want to have to explain. Since this is my blog, and I can pretty much say what I want. I'll give you a quick glimpse. I work in Orthopedics at a very large group. I see and examine patients (just as a physician would do), evaluate studies, diagnose, and treat patients. This all under the supervision of a Doctor. Rarely do they ever see the patient, unless it is an extremely complicated case. When on-call, I am the one taking the calls. I am usually responsible for 20-40 post-operative patients on the floor. I see all the complicated Ortho cases in the ER, reduce most fractures, and admit the patient for surgery. I also first assist in surgery (which to me is pretty boring).

How did we get to where we are, and why should you trust us to take care of you? One reason is that we usually know how to treat the common problems in Medicine better than the doctors. We see em everyday and know the protocols. We also usually know when it's over our head, and time to pass it along to the Doc. The Docs in our clinic rarely ever see the basic stuff anymore. More often than not, when they do, they are asking us what that protocol is. As for education, Most PA Programs these years are 2-3 year Masters Programs. They are run or are affiliated with a Medical School. We pretty much give up 3 years of our lives (after getting a BS degree) to do what we do. Unlike Medical school where the students go to class from 8-12 the first two years, we go from 8-5. Then study until midnight, and repeat the next day. Usually do an all nighter studying 1-2 nights a week. The general idea is to try and get the same information in 2 years instead of 4. For me, and for most, it was probably the hardest years of my life. In the end, well worth it.

So, that is it in a nutshell. I have now done the job that our profession is constantly trying to get us to do. Explain to the public what we are, and what we do. I'm pretty stoked, after 12 years of being a bastard, to now be recognized for a job that I truly enjoy and am glad to have.

So, how does this tie into surfing, Well, I get a lot of time off. Those hard years of work have now paved the way for the job of my dreams. I work three twelve hour shifts a week. This entails some nights and some weekends. Generally, I have 5 days a week, that I am off during the day. I also get one week off every 5 weeks. It's just the way the schedule rotates. I'm thinking most of you know what I'm doing with all that time.

http://money.cnn.com/magazines/moneymag/bestjobs/2009/

And the winners are...
Great pay and superior growth prospects. Work that's meaningful. Those are some of the qualities we looked for when selecting America's best jobs. More
1. Systems Engineer
2. Physician Assistant
3. College Professor
4. Nurse Practitioner
5. IT Project Manager
6. CPA
7. Physical Therapist
8. Network Security Consultant
9. Intelligence Analyst
10. Sales Director

The Pinliner Model

2009-10-12T14:49:00.001-07:00

I made this one for Peter St. Pierre. He has been an inspiration in my handplane quest. He was actually the first person to show me a handplane. Danny Hess sent him one of his models. It was pretty neat, and I filed it in the back of my head. A while later, he was at the beach one day and we again got to talking about bodysurfing and items used as assistance. He was talking about things they used to use back in the day. One of the big things he always went back to was a ping pong paddle. But, always kept saying that anything would work. So, prior to using that makeshift board I found on the beach, I tried one of the kids plastic shovels. It didn't do much. We got to talking again the other day, again he brought up that his favorite thing was the ping pong paddle. That he likes his Hess, but sometimes feels it's a little on the big side. He wanted something that was smaller and a little more functional, especially for waves that were top to bottom and super easy to catch. Waves you didn't need a big plane to get into (Think Wedge, Marine street, or just use your imagination.) Something like the ping pong paddle. He gave me some general dimensions and this is what I came up with. I like it alot, and will definately be making myself one, and I'm sure many others in the future.

BRING IT

2009-10-12T05:49:00.001-07:00

The winter that is. Yesterday was the most relaxing day I've had on the beach in a long time. Don't really know what happened. It was a Sunday, the sun came out, the wind was calm, the surf was reasonable. Not epic by any proportions, but definately do-able. Especially when the tide filled in. So, where were the people? Don't really know. Maybe the masses succumbed to Mr. Bass's constant hanging of postcards on our cars, and decided to check out his coveted, "Sacred Craft." Or the outdoorsperson was trying to get one last summer camping/hiking/biking trip in the Sierra's before Mother closed her doors. Maybe Football has finally taken a stronghold of all those warm water buoys, that seem to float around in our way during the summer. So, there I was, sitting on an empty beach, kids playing in the shorey, sitting in a chair, sewing neoprene handstrap covers for handplanes. Yea, you read it right. I was sewing on the beach. Got a few comments from friends, about needing me to sew em a new Beanie before winter kicked in, or a new pair of nice fuzzy socks. It's OK, I can take it. So, back to sitting on the beach. Had to be one of the most relaxing times I've had in a while. Lots of things on my mind lately, thanks to all of you who decided to do other things, you gave me some time to clear the haze a bit. These are the kind of days that make all the effort, or "Passion," if you will, worthwhile. Carry on.

One for Mr. Surfy

2009-10-09T12:43:00.001-07:00

Just finished this one up for JP. If you see him this weekend, he just might have it laying around.

Watch the Melon

2009-10-07T11:40:00.001-07:00

A couple things I've learned while using the Handplane:

First, as stated in a previous post, people WILL burn you. Be it your best friend (who woulda probably burned you anyway), or just the random Donkey visiting from Kansas. It will happen. And happen ALOT. I try and keep my composure and remind myself that I'm not on a board. If I were, knowing myself, and my sometimes lack of self control, I'd probably be constantly yelling if I got burned so much. So, with my accepting attitude about being burned, all I ask is that you watch out for my Melon. I'm gonna be behind you, even though you think not, just don't cut back on my head. I kinda wanta keep it intact, at least for a few more years.

Second, boy, it's sometimes pretty blinding when planing. Many times, especially while trying to get into the wave, your head is completely underwater. Your kicking as hard as you can, trying to make yourself streamline like a fish. You can feel your arm planing, but, you're not quite in the wave yet. A few more kicks, and you're going. Raise your body and your head, and finally you can see. Hopefully you set your line correctly and are actually now trimming down the face. Uh Oh, you've gotta push through a crumbling lip ahead, there goes the vision. Whitewater in the face, still planing, hoping to push through. Yes, there it is, back on the face and a nice section ahead. Stall, pull in, twist your body so now your back arm is above you, and actually stalling in the back part of the barrel, and wow, you've just experienced one of the best sensations in wave riding. As close to what the dolphins feel as any human can get. So, getting back to the blinding parts. Many times I'm doing this in a crowd. Unlike surfing, where my head is constantly above water and I can see who is in front of me, I can't see people paddling out through the waves. Someday, and probably soon, I'm gonna hit someone. To that person, I apologize. And also say, next time, get the fuck outta the way, cause you're the asshole that just burned me.

Channels

2009-10-04T14:28:00.000-07:00

We'll see how she goes tomarrow, if Eddie leaves us alone.

The Bastard Children of the Ocean

2009-10-01T23:45:00.000-07:00

I've definately had my words in the past about SUP's. Most are related to the mass public interest. The people who never really stepped foot in the ocean, or did it on an occasional basis. The SUP gave them the freedom to all of a sudden have a huge advantage over the paddle-less others. They didn't need to serve their time, work their way into the line-up, take the left overs, etc. If they were smart, All they needed to do is spend a week paddling on calm water, then take that act out into the line-up and learn to catch waves. Soon, they could be sitting out further then the rest, and stroking into waves, with hardly a competitor. I think I could teach a non-surfer how to paddle an SUP and having em ligitamately catch waves in 2 weeks. How long does it take the average surfer to learn to catch waves, stand up, and go down the line? Most of these newbies have absolutely no etiquitte whatsoever. They never learned. They never had some guy at WindanSea throw a punch at them, because he grew up their, not because he was right. They never had an older buddy constantly grind their mind with the rights and wrongs, the places they shouldn't go, or the places they shouldn't go with anyone else. They just don't get it. They don't understand why they hear comments as they paddle by. They are just out getting some exercise, just as they would on the basketball court or the softball field. Then, throw in the fact, that most of the ones that don't fit this bill, that actually surfed, then started to SUP, usually don't do it at the break that they used to surf at, well that is just plain fucked. My question to them is this, "You seem to surf well, why is it that you are all of a sudden coming here to SUP?" Why don't you SUP at the break that you used to surf at?

As many of you know, lately I've been really into this handplane thing. Today I got some of the best waves I've had with a handplane yet. Probably one of the funner sessions in the ocean this year. One thing that I've noticed while learning to handplane, is that when you are out bodysurfing, you also get absolutely no respect. On a surfboard, at most breaks, I usually get a fair share of waves. At the break I frequent most, usually more than my fair share. I think I know the wave pretty well, but, I also know the people as well. I've put in a decent amount of time, and think that I'm pretty well respected. That all seems to go out the window when you put on a pair of flippers. You could be talking to the guy next to you, hand over your plane for him to check it out, set comes, you are in position, and he'll burn you everytime. Doesn't matter if you can plane down the face and ride it as long as him. Doesn't matter if he saw you get perfectly slotted the wave before. For some reason, he thinks that because he's standing, it's his. The clincher is that these are the very same people that are making the comments that I made above about the SUP's.

So, now that I've got that all straightened out, the reason for my rant. There are about 5 guys that I know that SUP that I really respect. They started doing it way before the craze. All surfed well prior to starting to SUP. Know etiquitte well. Most importantly, grew up surfing the break that they now SUP at. Tom English is one of them. I enjoy surfing with Tom and talking with him in the lot. He's a smart guy and is always willing to share or give away a wave. Here are a few picks of Tom and myself last weekend, riding a wave together. The part that was missed in the photos, was when we were actually right next to each other, gave a nice High-5, then he sling-shotted me into the next section. One of the most memorable waves of the year. Memorable, while still being the Bastard Children of the Ocean.

Handplane Goodness

2009-10-01T07:40:00.001-07:00

Well, I've been pretty much addicted to this handplane thing for the last month. Have gotten in the water almost daily, foregoing surfing, in hopes of getting a few good ones with the plane. I pretty much tweaked my original prototype on a daily basis. I then made, tested, and tweaked a few others. Screwed with channels, holes, and multiple straps set-ups. This is the version that I came up with that seems to fit my needs the best. Wood is Poplar, which is a nice hard wood and will hopefully be real durable. Strap is adjustable for tightness. Board is sealed with 4 coats of Helmsman Gloss. The belly flows to about the strap placement, and I stayed with the deep single concave, because overall, I seemed to get far better waves and was able to stay in the pocket far more often then when I was using the board with channels. For the guys that contacted me about making one for em, should be starting later today as I've now finished most of my experimentation and and ready to make some.

My Jason Buttonshaw Story

2009-09-26T23:40:00.000-07:00

I was lucky to be approached by my best friend during his senior year in High School. We had been watching the Chris Bystrom movies and were in complete ahh of Australia, Kirra in general. He said that when he graduated, he was going. He invited me to tag along and I took him up on it. In 1988, we ventured to Cooly and had a nice flat waiting for us, two blocks from Kirra. It was January and summer was in full swing. We stayed for six weeks. Our flat was on the third floor of a six floor building. Our balcony overlooked Coolangatta. On the far side of town, around the corner from Snapper, was the legendary, "Patch," nightclub. It was the big hangout for every surfer within 20 miles. Legends, pros, local hero's, traveling donkeys (us), and anyone else you could ever envision, would be thier on most nights. I was a little timid in unfamiliar settings in those days, and looked like I was about 10. Though I was 19, going to a nightclub basically scared the shit out of me. I spent many a night holding up the walls watching. On the nights that we didn't go, we would stay up late and watch the entourage walk by after it closed. Of those that would have to walk by, Jason Buttonshaw was one of them. For those of you that don't know who Jason is/was, well he was supposed to be the next "Tom Curren" of the surfing world. He was groomed in the legendary hollow pointbreaks on the Goldcoast and thick barrels of D-Bah. He was amazing to watch. This was his heyday, and he was on-fire, both in the water, and at "The Patch." Though, I think he was only 17 at the time, I think they really didn't care that he was underage. So, most nights Jason would come walking by the dark path that went around our building. Many nights alone, and, well, intoxicated. My buddy and I would watch him pass, and after a few nights, decided, it was time to fuck with Jason. The next night he walked by, we were ready. Ice chips were our form of attack. We would throw a grip of chips high in the air, and then duck out of site and watch. That boy had no idea what was going on. He would just look up in frustration, without a clue of what or where these things were coming from. This went on during our whole stay, and remains one of the biggest memories to come out of that trip. There were others, and I did learn alot, mainly how to dodge a perfectly good barrel, but the Buttonshaw thing just brings a smile to my face. Jason, if you are out thier, and I ever meet you, you get one free shot, anywhere you wanta take it, I deserve it. A few other things come to mind when thinking about that first real trip away from home. Sitting on the balcony, watching lightning storms, while listening to U2's Joshua Tree, on my walkman cassette. One of my favorite songs to this day comes from that album. "I Still Haven't Found What I'm Looking For," the gospel version. When that song randomly comes on, I can close my eyes and envision sitting on that balcony, watching the sky light up in the most amazing patterns. Then, when that chior starts whaling, it makes my heart beat a little faster, and my body a little warmer. I love gospel, and mixed with a good song, it just can't be beat.

I Love to Plane

2009-09-24T13:40:00.000-07:00

Handplane that is. As a follow up to the post from a while ago. I got around to making a handplane. I am totally enthralled with it. It's pretty much all I have been doing over the last month. 3/4 of the times I have gone to the beach, I've not surfed, only to handplane instead. Somedays, I'll surf for a while, then switch and get in some time on the plane. It's amazing that in 25 years of surfing, I never got into this. It is so much fun. Nothing like the feeling of your body sliding down the face of a wave, stalling for the upcoming section, then contorting your body to fit into the barrel. Prior to this, my idea of bodysurfing was catching a wave straight to the beach to retrieve my board. Rarely was I ever able to get on the face of a wave and go down the line. If so, then it was a very short ride. Now, with a plane, I'm catching waves as easily as if I had a board, and riding em just as long. I can't explain the feeling, and I know, eventually, I'll probably get bored, just like in surfing, but, for now, it is all I can think about. So, I've made a few planes now, but I still mainly use the initial prototype that I built. Initially, I built it without a strap or hole. I just palmed it. I really liked it in that phase. Just me and some wood. Plus, it was nice to swim with. I was urged to either put a hole in it, so the fingers went through the board, or attach a strap. I'm not a big fan of the hole, everyone says that is doesn't affect function, but, I just like the thought of water flowing freely along the contours of the bottom. Holes in Handplanes do keep it basic and aesthetically pleasing, and allow some for control. I also don't like the looks of most straps. They just look like they don't belong. The curiosity got the best of me. So, one morning I went in the garage and found an old bodyboarding strap, cut off the leash, and screwed it to the deck. Wow, the newfound control was pretty amazing, but honestly I still like the pure and plain aesthetics of just a peice of wood. I learned alot about what a strap had to do to be functional, which definately needed to be taken into consideration when designing a strap system. The next phase in the process, was to come up with a strap system. I tossed around some ideas with others, my main concern being function, but also something that looks good. I mean, you gotta a beautifully carved piece of wood, with a nice finish if desired, you can't put a piece of dogshit across the top. So, the strap system below is what I came up with. It is adjustable for looseness, and also pivots that way a good strap should. Plus, I think it looks pretty good too. The last thing that I've done recently to my handplane was add two channels (actually did it this morning). They aren't pictured, but run about an inch from the rail, parallel to the center, about halfway up the board. So, I think I've run the course with this first board and plan on making many more just like it in the future.

BITTERSWEET

2009-09-15T18:30:00.000-07:00

The Hoodoo Gurus. A band that energized a generation of surfers.

Movies That Inspired an Era

2009-09-11T02:47:00.000-07:00

When I think back to the Curren/Occy Era, I've got to think of these movies made by Chris Bystrom. From 1984 until Taylor Steele ushered in a new kind of surf movie, these were the bible. From Blazing Boards, Beyond Blazing Boards, The Last Surf Movie, to Son of the Last Surf Movie, they inspired a generation. I personally was a very impressional teenager through this time. My friends and I watched these things over and again probably hundreds of times. The soundtracks became anthems to any extracurricular activites we were doing. They even inspired two trips to Australia that I was lucky enough to take at the ages of 19 and 22. Kirra in it's heyday. Taught me plenty good how to dodge a barrel.

I Lagged

2009-09-10T14:35:00.000-07:00

Hopefully when Robert gets his board, he will be so stoked that he will forget about how long it took me. So, here it is, 5'8 Mini-Sims Arc Tail. While finishing this board up, it went through my head how many people I know that would benefit from a shape like this. I'm surf if he doesn't like it, it won't be hard to get rid of.

Groovy Little Hand Plane

2009-09-09T10:37:00.000-07:00

I found this makeshift handplane on the beach about a month ago. It was sitting next to the kids boogies. It sat all day with nobody to claim. At the end of the day, I threw it in the back of the van and their it sat for some time. On Saturday I took the kids out to the low tide sand bar to boogie. Perfect reforms taking them quite a ways to the beach. I noticed a nice waist to chest high wave breaking pretty fast over the sandbar. Once the kids were tired, I grabbed my fins and did some bodysurfing. Next day, same thing. This time, decided to try the little hand plane that I had found weeks ago. I had so much fun. Never realized how much a hand plane makes a difference. I was actually trimming and pulling into some nice views. I'm addicted. It's all I've been thinking about for the last few days. At first I was a little turned off by the outline of this thing. It was pretty crudely made, no sealer, but they did put some belly into the nose. I had been eyeballing some of Hess's handplanes, and even looked at Peter's extensively. This one just seemed kind of basic. What I didn't realize, is this basic outline provides a pretty good ride, but, it also is very functional in the water. It's easy to paddle with, and actually, I was able to just palm it, and swim normally. I like it. I'm gonna make a few. I've got some leftover Redwood from our table project from last year that I'm gonna use. Gonna make some modification that I think will help performance and function, but, otherwise, gonna keep it nice and basic. Can't wait to get working on em.

Roberts Update

2009-09-04T11:41:00.000-07:00

Well, spent alot of time on this board over the last week. I haven't surfed, but have had a good time working on the board. Just finished sanding it. Needs gloss and polish then it will be done. It's f-ing hot. Over a hundred in my shaping/sanding room. I'm dripping with sweat. It's time to wash off with a surf and start the holiday weekend off right. Will probably hand deliver it to him in Orange County early-mid next week.

Bottom Glossed

Roberts Board

2009-09-01T09:51:00.000-07:00

Robert has been really patient, and a pleasure to work with. Here are some pics of his shaped blank. Will be adding more pics to this post during the glassing process to keep him updated on the status.

Bottom Laminated

The Cove

2009-08-29T19:03:00.000-07:00

http://thecovemovie.com

Watch the trailer. Better yet, go watch the movie. Click on the header, it will take you to the website. Multiple ways you can help. Join them on Facebook, twitter, etc. Sign the petition, it's easy, and just might make you feel a little bit better about yourself at the end of the day.

Gary Hanel Twinfin Review

2009-08-28T08:35:00.001-07:00

My birthday was a few days ago and I was lucky to get an incredible board from my family as a present. I've always liked the boards that GH makes. He's always making boards that are very practical and from reviews, seem to work great. I've ridden a few and have always had a positive experience. My wife rides a longboard that he shaped for her, and it's her favorite board ever. I saw this board on the showroom floor at Moonlight the day they finished it. I couldn't keep my hands off it. In my opinion, it's the nicest board I've seen in the showroom this year. Well, at least that fits me. Peter did an unreal job with the airbrush and I can't even fathom the amount of time it took him. Then, there are the fins. I've done alot of research on twins over the last year. This was the first time I'd ever seen this one. Something new, something different, something to try. Isn't that always the best reason to get a new board? Boredom. Plus, it was shaped to the exact dimensions that I would have ordered. 5'10 x 19 1/4" x 2 1/4." I dropped a few hints to Rebecca, and low and behold, she is now mine. Thanks family, JP, Pinliner, GH, and Marlin. Oh, and lets not forget Sally, cause whether you know it or not, she controls/takes care of em all.

REVIEW: All the elements for a good first surf on my Birthday were looking very positive. Nice weather when I woke, swell on the buoys, reasonable tide. Thats the one beauty about surfing, things can be looking good one minute, and go to hell the next, and vice versa. It leaves us constantly wanting. Well, by the time I got down to surf at around 8:30am, the wind had already started blowing out of the northwest. There was enough swell, but just not hitting the reef right. It was one of those closed out or mushy days. Head high. Really sectiony. I didn't have a great session. I would rate it average, mainly because it was summer, and there at least was some swell. Didn't really get a decent feeling for the board. The one thing that I did seem to notice is that it needed a little more drive. I had looked at the fin set-up prior to waxing it up. The fins were already in the boxes by the fine folks at Moonlight. They were pushed all the way up to the front of the boxes. Problem is, the bases of Twin fins are pretty long, so I wasn't actually able to locate the true shapers dot to set the fins too. I figured that I would just leave em all the way forward and give it a try.

Second session yesterday. I had absolutely no expectations about the surf. I actually brought my log just in case. I was pleasantly surprised when I arrived to the beach. Surf was solid headhigh to a few feet overhead and real good. I moved the fins to the middle of the boxes and paddled out. I was a little weary, as I was riding a twin fin, and the surf was not only solid, but actually dredging on a few. Plus, all lefts, meaning backside for me. So, I took off on my first wave and the board seemed to go well. Nothing special as I was just trying to get a feel for it. Next wave, little heavier top bottom combo. No sliding. Third wave was a dredger. Took off deep without much of a prayer of even making the drop. Pigdogged in the air and expected to be done. Fins grabbed, set rail, and drove for a long way. Didn't make it out, but by far the best driving view I've seen this summer. The board held so well. Next few waves was able to do some solid top turns. No spinning. This board is fast, holds well, pivots well, and overall I can say is probably one of the best boards I've had in a while. I had probably my funnest session this year. Wave after wave. I don't think it's gonna be a great groveler (course I have a fish for that) but it's gonna be a great performance board. I would highly recomend this board. I am stoked.

This Looks Fun

2009-08-20T12:58:00.000-07:00

I always have a set of fins in the car. Rarely do I ever use em. This makes me want to use em more.

Can a good board be ...

2009-08-20T08:04:00.000-07:00

Can a good board be more environmentally friendly. Well, personally I think we are getting closer. Check this out:

ENVIROFOAM CORE 09

The first 100% recycled surfboard core

■Marko was interested in taking their in-house recycling process to the next level and found a material process that will take all post-use EPS scrap material and reformulate it so that it could be re-manufactured into a solid blank again.
■In 2006 that reformulation process was being developed and in its infancy and now in 2009 the manufacturing process has been perfected. This innovative technology allows all types of EPS regrind to be made into a high grade moldable material for production again. The material is called Envirofoam, and is looking to be a solid choice for a sustainable blank material in the surfboard manufacturing process.
■Marko has tested this material for use in blanks and finished boards with some of our select customers. With positive results, Marko was granted an exclusive global contract securing the manufacturing and distribution of this revolutionary process for all water sports applications. Marko is proud to be a part of this amazing process and now introduces the first 100% recycled EPS blank into the market in May 2009.

Now, many complain of the ride characteristics of EPS. It's not the gold standard ride that Polyester Resin and a Polyurethane blank provide. I'm the first to admit that. I personally like the EPS/Epoxy combo on small wave boards. Though, if I had to choose, my ride choice would, without a doubt, be the PU/PO combo.

Resin-X was introduced to the market about a 18-24 months ago. Many people were very excited about the product, as it had great flex characteristics, a real good ride, and has very little harmful effects on the environment, as well as the manufacturer. Despite great ride results, It pretty much failed when used with Polyester Blanks due to inconsistancies in Polyester blanks, as well as inconsistant melt temps. Plus, it provided a hurdle during production. It takes a little more work, and some different techniques need to be used during the application and finishing process. This didn't flush well with the already struggling production glass shops. Plus, it is more expensive than Epoxy, which is already twice the cost of Polyester Resin.

One place that Resin-X has thrived is when it is used with EPS. It provides a light board, with a good flex pattern, and also a flex pattern that doesn't deaden over time. This combo has been tested all over the world with good results from top surfers. Including extensive testing in Hawaii by Mikala Jones.

So, with the Marko Enviro-foam blank and Resin-X, it think it is a possibility to make more earth friendly boards that might work as well as PO/PU. It might take some time of development, and might make boards more expensive, but I think it's time.

I've been toying with starting to try and make boards that work, look decent, and are more frindly to Mom Earth. I've got a gallon of Resin-X in the cabinet and a Marko blank (granted it's not an enviro-blank). Nonetheless, I should be able to get a few boards out of this gallon. We'll see how it goes.

Good Eyemages

2009-08-10T21:07:00.000-07:00

Last weekend I was talking to one of the early morning guys while he was snapping a few shots. Usually he gets to the reef early, parks near Rebecca, has a surf, snaps a few pics, then moves along. I usually say hi, exchange a few sentences, then take his parking space. I got their early last weekend, so I was already on the beach with the kids. He told me he got a shot of Rebecca last weekend that was pretty good. He said he'd leave his blog info on my window. So, I go to check the blog, and am really impressed. He's got some really good shots, of all types of surfing, on his blog. No links, no titles, no commentary. Just pics. It's pretty cool.

Rebecca, South Swell, August 1, 2009

John Carlston (TinyUniverse), South Swell, August 1 2009

Micah Carlston, taking after Pops

all photos courtesy of http://goodeyemages.blogspot.com/

Calling Hong Kong

2009-08-08T14:12:00.000-07:00

So, how does this relate to surfing? Well back in the day, my buddy chuck and I used to hang out at Canyon Surf Shop. You know the one, where RP got his start shaping. Juan Grande owned. The same space Pavel now uses as the Greenroom. Well, since Juan was pretty much never around, JK would be manning the counter. It was usually pretty slow, so we'd just go in and BS. JK was really into music, he turned Chuck and I on to this band "Supernova," out of Costa Mesa. So, we'd pretty much go see them everytime they came down and played in San Diego. They were probably some of the funnest shows I've ever been too. This, for the record (no pun intended) was the last band that I owned a cassette tape from. They used to sell cassettes at their shows. So, I was talking to a friend the other day that lives in OC, and they said they worked in Costa Mesa. My reply, "Costa Mesa Hates Me," which is one of the songs Supernova used to play. It kinda flew over their head, which was understandable, but reminded me of those fun times JK, Chuck, and I used to have. Supernova broke up a few years later, and other than that stoopid Supernova reality TV show, I never really heard much about them. So, Today, I'm watching "Yo Gabba Gabba" with my daughter Rella, daizing in an out of a nap, and what comes on, "Supernova" singing one of thier songs. It was pretty cool. So a little research, and apparently they still play. I was looking for "Costa Mesa Hates Me", or "Hippi," but "Calling Hong Kong," will do just fine.

Lucky Jay

2009-08-02T21:19:00.000-07:00

While all of us continually brag about how good our local spot was last weekend. Jay jumped through some hurdles and scored this place with just a couple other heads out. This was one of the smaller ones. Wave after wave after wave. He recently messed up his knee and had to take six weeks off of surfing. Doctors orders. He was pretty good about his rehab. I think this was his reward. Stoked for you Jay.

BUY IAN'S PRINTS

2009-07-21T08:48:00.000-07:00

Hey guys

In the past year or so Ive picked up some camera gear and started shooting, mainly surf photography. Ive fell in love with it and spent some time and hard earned money on this hobby. I never pursued this to make money. I just enjoyed shooting friends, family and whoever comes along......

.....Long story short, I had to sell my camera equipment ( Lenses, water housing, etc etc ) to pay some bills. Now that its gone the bug has bitten me and have been aching to get back behind the lens.

Anyway. I figured I'd try to put these photos to good use. I've selected a few photos that might strike some interest and could be a great addition to your living room, office, coffee table, garage or wherever. I would appreciate it if you could take the time and browse through photos

Please email me for any interest in purchasing prints in this gallery. ( These will be high quality prints, no home printer crap, no water marks. it will be signed just for you :) I will even do a quick portrait shot of you with a print purchase :)

Thank you for taking time reading this and enjoy browsing the gallery.

Here is the link:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zamorasurfboards/sets/72157620483891935/

I would truly appreciate it if you guys could forward this to your friends and family.

Thanks and Enjoy!
--
Ian Zamora
818 730 8615
www.thedegreeofslide.blogspot.com
www.flickr.com/zamorasurfboards.

If you're too lazy to click on the link, here's a few samples:

Close to Home Trailer

2009-07-15T00:55:00.001-07:00

Close to Home is a story about two regular people doing what every surfer dreams about - taking a year and traveling to as many places as possible to score epic waves! Puerto Rico, the Maldives, New Zealand, and South and West Oz act as the backdrop for beautiful adventures and lessons learned in environmental protection.

Teaser for Bryan and Jonna

2009-07-10T11:13:00.000-07:00

Maiden Voyage Today

2009-07-07T06:27:00.000-07:00

I haven't made myself a board since last fall. I think it was the Clownfish. I've had alot of ideas on things that I wanted to make, but just not the time to do it. A few weeks ago, I was stuck at home tending to some domestic responsibilities. Mainly I just had to be present. So, instead of finishing up Dylan's shape, or starting Robert's (Sorry guys), I shaped myself something. I wanted something for summer, and started off just shaping myself the usual run of the mill Keel, but, just about when I was going to cut the tail out, I decided against it. I modified the lost rocket tail to fit on a really wide template and turned the thing into a quad. So, think of it as a Keel, meets Mini-Sims, meets Lost Rocket, and set it all up as a quad. Well, we'll see how it goes.

DIMS: 5'7 X 21" X 2 1/4"

One I would like to attend

2009-06-29T09:24:00.000-07:00

It won't happen, but for some reason, a Fish Fry in Ireland just seems like a good time and interesting proposition. Someday. Gotta give props to whoever did the artwork, probably the best artwork for a fry yet.

Best Surf Movie of the Year

2009-06-26T07:04:00.000-07:00

Tis The Season

2009-06-24T08:39:00.000-07:00

I dusted mine off yesterday and had a fun time. These pics are of Daniel Graham a few days ago at the local local Super Secret Spot. Taken by Tom English. Click on header and it will take you to the full gallery.

The Muffs

2009-06-17T22:34:00.000-07:00

Lately I've been hearing this song alot. Usually it's Kim Wildes version on the radio. I remember seeing the Muffs at the Catbox with Chuck. Some good times back then. As gay as it sounds, this song makes me feel young.

Pauly strikes again

2009-06-04T10:02:00.000-07:00

Just got these photos forwarded to me from Pauly. Seems he's roaming the coast somewhere south of here. I'd say he's doing quite well.

Future Landfill

2009-06-02T07:04:00.000-07:00

It's amazing how all the things your parents used to bitch about, you are now filling that same void. Don't know how many times I've told the boys to stop putting holes in the knees of their pants or dragging thier feet. Well, here is their latest selection in future landfill.

New Matuse Site

2009-05-21T12:46:00.000-07:00

From the initial look, it seemed like the same as before. As you dig a little, you find much better descriptions and pictures. Plus, you can buy suits, shirts, and other accessories on-line. If you look in the vintage section, they have last years models for pretty significantly reduced prices (if they have your size). Many over the last year have personally e-mailed me or complained that they couldn't find the product in their area. Now, this shouldn't be a problem. Plus pretty good deals in the vintage section. I am personally still wearing my first generation 2mm SS full, going on 2+ years now and still in great shape. I approve.

www.matuse.com

"The Fraud"

2009-05-20T15:54:00.000-07:00

I call this the "Fraud" model. As you can see the similarities. I changed up the bottom and used a deep single, plus added the extra rear side boxes so my buddy could try it as a quad. This is a copy of the first board I shaped him about 9 months ago. He has ridden that board into the ground. My buddy loves EPS, so I decided to try Keahana system, as I've read alot about them and have been interested in their process. He's a big guy and is hard on boards. Him being the main person I surf with, I figured what better person than to put it to the test. The guys at Keahana were real nice and easy to work with. Explained the whole process real well. The blank is shaped out of a Keahana EPS fish blank. Sorry, the color is a little splotchy, I took the pics outside the factory and didn't wipe all the sand dust off the board.

Jonna's Sneak Peak

2009-05-19T11:34:00.000-07:00

This is a 5'0 Keel that I shaped for Jonna. She has been extremely patient and has dealt with my schedule better than I could have ever asked for. For this I thank her. It came out around 20 1/4" wide and just under 2 1/4" thick. As for the color, she said she wanted some yellow and didn't care how it came out. Actually she said she wanted it to look like someone vomitted all over it. So, I took some yellow paint and the compressor and went at it. Was kinda fun and looks pretty cool. Was easy and took very little time. Will be doing more of these in the future with multiple colors. Will be dropping it off to the glasser later today for a gloss and polish. Lokbox with Bamboo Keels from Marlin.

BARNEY

2009-05-11T07:52:00.000-07:00

The latest addition to the team. Barney is 7 weeks old and 15lbs. He hails from Los Banos, CA. The fourth born of six. He likes to sleep and likes to poop. Luckily we have been pretty succuessful in keeping the latter outside. After two days, so far, so good. He's pretty amazing and has been as easy as a puppy could be. At least so far.

Do Something !!!

2009-05-04T20:11:00.000-07:00

Rick, putting his old yellow pod type thingy through some of its last paces.

Keahana Sneak Peak

2009-04-29T17:46:00.001-07:00

Just got an e-mail from Jim who stopped by the Keahana shop earlier today. I shaped this board for my best friend. It's a replacement of the last Pod type shape that I made for him about a year ago. He's plum worn that one out, so he was due. He likes EPS/Epoxy boards and I've been interested for a long time about trying out the Keahana System. This is shaped from one of Keahana's EPS fish blanks. They were real nice, explained the system well. I will be definately be using them again. It's getting 5 boxes. So he can ride it as a thruster, twin plus trailer (his preference), or a quad. So far everything seems to be coming out great. Can't wait to see it when it's done.

GIDDY UP!

2009-04-03T22:33:00.000-07:00

I call this the "Giddy Up" model. Made for Joey, who is fast becoming the biggest board whore around. It was a pleasure making this board for him. Never any pressure. He truly understood that, for me, other things have a higher priority than making boards. Other than the fins made by Marlin and the boxes installed by Jimmy, everything else was done at the BrownFish Factory. Oh, wait, I mean in my garage. Measurements are 6'2 x 20.5" x 2 5/8" and has a 10 1/4" tail block. ICE-9 Cane Blank. Nose and tail pulled in quite a bit in comparison to a standard Keel Fish. A little added Rocker. Designed mainly for fun lined up point breaks. Not hollow, but not mushy either. Think head high+ Malibu without 150 logs.
Hopefully he enjoys it.

Just Plain White

2009-03-31T09:07:00.000-07:00

Didn't make it over to the AB3 event this year. Too many variables to overcome. Instead went for a quick trip to the beach with the family. My wife caught some pretty good waves, which I always like, then the wind started howling out of the south. Watched a kiteboarder get some air. Last but not least, met up with Bryan and Jonna, so he could pick up the latest addition to his mega quiver. I'm not naming it after anyone, especially that one guy, even though he does deserve the credit. Gonna call it, "Just Plain White."

Just Plain Wrong

2009-03-29T22:35:00.001-07:00

5 minutes, thats all I ask

2009-03-29T18:47:00.000-07:00

Clear you mind. Relax. Close your windows. Wait for the kids to go to bed. Turn off your TV and stereo. Then hit play. Thanks GP.

What Ever Happened to Board #3

2009-03-08T06:41:00.000-07:00

I shaped this board for Kenny back in June of last year. It was the third board I shaped. I always liked the way it came out. Yeah, after shaping some boards since, I would do a few things diferently, but overall it seemed like it would go well. Kenny got hit with it pretty good on his second go out, but still said that it rode well. Haven't heard a anything since. Always wonder what this board it up to now.

My Friends and I

2009-03-05T23:20:00.000-08:00

Two years ago this week, our fearless blogging leader shot this epic 7 second short film of me surfing with my friends. I think it won some awards at the Leucadia Film Festival for most innovative surfing film to date. A few waves after this was taken, he was visciously run over by an SUP and suffered a severe case of IMUSTHAVEAKIDSOON. The prophesy was quickly fulfilled and so ended his career in film making.

Great Shaping Video

2009-02-26T13:20:00.000-08:00

This is a video of Tim Stamps shaping a board at FOAM-EZ'S new shaping room. This video is very well put together. Pretty much shows all the steps. Most videos that you see on the internet are quick teasers. It's always nice seeing someone else shape. Always learn something new.

As for the Shaping bay. FOAM-EZ are letting people rent it out (tools, vacuum, etc) to shape boards. Anyone can rent it, from first timers, to pro's, to old timers. It's a pretty good concept when you think about it. Would have been nice to have a decent room to shape my first few boards in. FOAM-EZ has always been a quality act as far as I'm concerned. Sometimes they may be a little more expensive than going directly to the source, but they make up for it in customer service. Everything that I have ever ordered from them has been shipped that day or the next day, and I've gotten it the day after. I wish they were driving distance, because I'd probably use them for everything.

Best Bag Ever ????

2009-02-18T16:12:00.000-08:00

Cow Bay

2009-02-13T22:58:00.000-08:00

Since I've been so enthralled in cows and point breaks, A quick google search came up with this nice video. It's near Cow Bay in Nova Scotia. Now normally I wouldn't be posting a name of a break, but, since it's -15 out with the windchill, I'm pretty sure that the throngs aren't going to be charging up their to have a go. Even I would probably shy away. Don't know how often this place gets this good, but it sure does look like a fun place to ride a Keel.

Great Lakes Pointbreak

2009-02-12T07:03:00.000-08:00

Did I tell you that I like rights. Well, this one was forwarded to me from a nice gentlemen in the Great Lakes named Grant. All the buildings in the background aren't really as they seem. They are barns that house cows, kind like the ones in my prior post, but different. It's a super undercover hybrid cow farm. Apparently prior to the cow farm, this was just a subpar beachbreak. Since the cow farm was established, apparently the runoff of these supercows has formed this perfect pointbreak. Not only has it formed this perfect, perpetually peeling, pointbreak, but it also seems to be a magnet for swell. This place used to deliver knee high dribble, but, since the supercows showed up, is head high +, all day, everyday.

I Like Rights

2009-02-11T12:06:00.000-08:00

Every so often some pictures will show up in my e-mail that just does it for me. They are usually from my buddy Pauly. We used to live across the street from each other a while back, when I was borrowing a room from my best friend. We then happened to buy houses in a new community and live pretty close to each other. We shared a very small cabin in a catamaran on our trip to the Mentawais a few years back. He proved to be a very good roomy and travel partner. Always stoked, except when I talked about my Keel Fish. He's still a little locked in the 80's and 90's when it comes to board design, but that's ok, don't think I know anyone as stoked on surfing as Pauly. Well, I just got a new shipment of pics from Pauly and I like what I see. Can't beat a head high peeling right point for pure fun factor. These pics were taken somewhere in Oregon. I could probably tell you where, but I don't want them loggers coming down and knocking on my door.

Board Art

2009-02-09T13:19:00.000-08:00

My wife used to do alot of drawing back in the day. She kinda took a hiatus for about 6 years, pretty much after our first son was born. I remember going to San-O for the day and after surfing, she'd just hang out and sketch. One of the best sketches I think she ever did was of an overweight guy sitting in a lawn chair next to us. If we still had that, it'd definately be hanging on a wall somewhere in our house. Also drew Josh Hall's first logo. Over the last year or so, she's been lucky enough to have a few people ask her to draw on boards. I've been meaning to put a small offering together for my blog. So, finally, as I wait for the refrigerator repair man to show, I put together some of the things she has done. In my opinion, most of the pictures don't truly do these pieces justice. It would be easy to say I'm biased, which I am, but they look way better in person. Hopefully she'll have a new project soon, because in my mind, she has a talent that isn't being tapped.

High School

2009-02-04T03:28:00.000-08:00

Some loved it, some hated it. For me, now being over half my lifetime away, I'm not really sure which it is. I know it definately wasn't my favorite time in life. Merely just another four years of school. Actually, I think I felt more part of the school thing when I was in Middle School. I did wind up with two great friends that are still my best friends to this day. I have a third best friend, but we met in Kindergarten or the first grade, so, I guess we'll have to leave him out on this one.

I started surfing while in High School. My brother had just graduated, and he and his friend decided that they wanted to learn to surf. They were three and four years older than me. As they were just setting off into new found independance, I was just starting my sophemore year.

More than anything I think it was our own little rebellion against our parents. Not that they ever treated us bad, and in fact, treated us pretty damn good, but everyones got to have a little rebellion. Our parents really had no idea what surfing was. Thier idea of going to the beach was our annual trip to Mission Bay for Fourth of July. We were woken in the dark, packed into the Falcon Wagon (which in those days we hated) and driven over the hills as the sun breached the water. Dad cooked eggs and bacon on the barbeque. Then we spent all day, without sunscreen, getting sunburned with the rest of the uninitiated. Watch the Sea World fireworks. Then wait another year and repeat. The only white water we'd experience was from boat wakes.

So, in a way, the beach was a little forbidden fruit that we just had to taste. We would do whatever we had to do to get thier. Everyone would save their lunch money and we'd pack 3-4 into the VW Bug and head over the hill after or before school. Sometimes even both. I bought my first board from my brother. It was his first board past down. I think $25. Then continued buying his hand me downs, until I was able to work a summer job and buy a new custom, "JETS." During this time, not only did my grades dive, but also my school and baseball attendance.

I was pretty into baseball and was pretty decent at it too. My coach had high hopes for me. When he learned that I had been missing baseball practice to go surfing, he sat me down for a little lecture. From this lecture, one of the most profound statements of my life came. He said, "You will never get out of Surfing, what you could get out of Baseball." My coach was a great guy, and truly meaned well. But like my parents, really had no clue. In my High School graduating class, our team won the District. Seven of the Nine starting players were drafted. That is pretty amazing. Never before, and probably never again will that many players get drafted from one team, at least at my school. So getting back to his statement, out of those seven players that were drafted, how many do you think are still playing baseball? Yup, you guessed it. NONE.

Surfing has done great things for me. Besides all the fun it has brought, the best thing has to be helping to connect the lives of my wife and I. A distant second would be that i've been lucky and had the opportunity to travel a decent amount.

As would be expected, Travelling has slowed down a bit since the three rugrats came along. My last trip was to the Mentaweis a few years ago. It was a great trip and I was lucky enough to share it with two of my my best friends that I went to high school with.

As for the board, It's for one of those two buddies. It's called the "Barrel Rider." Another expression we've pretty much said our whole surfing lives. Anytime anyone stalls, and even gets a rear ear dip, they get the label. After Slater won the Pipe Masterson on a short stubby board, We'll call him Joey, came to me and said he wanted a barrel board for our local slab. Short, wide point forward, low entry rocker, etc.

As for the fins, yea, well, leave it to one of your best friends to forget his shiny new fins for the pictures.

5'5 Simmons type thingy

2009-01-29T14:15:00.000-08:00

Don't know what to call it. I guess everyone saying Simmons inspired, but, really, I've never gotten any advice directly from Simmons. Great guy from what I'm told. Thanks to Richard Kenvin for doing the research and making us all think outside the box, and Ian Zamora for sharing so much information.

Shelter Bonzer For Sale

2009-01-25T09:47:00.000-08:00

Shelter Replica Bonzer - 6-2 x 11 3/4 x 19 x 14 3/8 x 2 3/8. This board is a copy of the board that was surfed in "SHELTER." Board in good condition. Comes with clear glass fins pictured in cluster, North San Diego, $475. Please do not contact me,
contact Ian at: ioroarty@hotmail.com

February 4th, 2009 - Board back on market. After much interest, and the board being virtually sold, and also many interest parties being told that it was sold, is still for sale. The pending buyer backed out at the last minute. So the board is back on the market for anyone interested. Fin has been sold.

CHERRY AGAVE 6.5 Bonzer Fin- Feather light $60

Dillons Step-Up Twinfin

2009-01-19T22:49:00.000-08:00

Dillon has been waiting quite a while for me to finish this board. It is a step-up for him. 6'2 x 18 3/4" x 2 3/8" thick. Very slight single concave. Ice-9 Cane blank. I was lucky and didn't get any oxidation of the color. Glassed entirely with UV poly resin. Polish is no where near the level of JP and Jimmy, but hey, I think it came out pretty good. Thanks to Jimmy for setting the boxes for me, and Marlin for making another great set of fins. Most importantly Dillon, for letting me make this board for him. Sorry about the poor lighting, it's nighttime and I gots to go back to work the next few days, so outside photos weren't an option. Plus, rocker shot not an option, as my room be too small, at least for now.

Hand Sanding

2009-01-15T23:18:00.000-08:00

Sometimes you just got to do it. Trying to get this board done for Dylan before our first real swell of the winter arrives. Was gonna work on it during the day today, but my daughter became sick, so I spent the day watching movies with her. Mom and kids now in bed, so it's time to get some work done. No power tools allowed, so the Milwalkee just sat on the shelf and grinned as I broke my first sweat of the day. Was able to sand the rails and the laps on both sides, plus any high spots on the deck and bottom. Will take the Milwalkee and finish it off tomarrow while my daughter takes her midday nap. Hopefully will be able to gloss one side also. I told Dylan I'd try to get it done by Saturday night, and I'm gonna try.

Geoprene on Surfline

2009-01-15T09:59:00.000-08:00

January 13, 2009

John Campbell is a talker. And not in the "Oh God, get me away from this guy," kind of way. He's more the "Damn, I need this guy as my wingman" type of talker. He's the guy you want captaining your ship. A frontman by nature...

To read the rest or just check out John's mug, click on the title above, or cut and paste in browser:

http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/matuse-wetsuits-founding-partner-gives-some-insight-into-the-brand-so-many-people-are-talking-about-industry-i_21611/

KOOKS

2009-01-07T11:49:00.000-08:00

Many have seen this, but, still, couldn't help myself. Saw it on the ERBB. If your gonna start, be commited to the whole 8 minutes. Too much.

New Twinzer

2008-12-09T11:11:00.000-08:00

A nice guy from the East Coast contacted me and wanted a Twinzer shaped. I was pretty stocked to shape him a board after listening about all the boards he has had in the past, and all the shapers, who you all know, he has gotten them from. So, after going back and forth about specs, we came up with this. 5'7 x 20.5" x 2 3/8". Ice-9 Cane blank. Sanded gloss. Front twinzer fins glassed in and LOKBOX in the rear. I personally like it alot, and was wondering how much shit I'd get in if I just didn't ship it?

FOR SALE - SOLD

2008-11-25T11:02:00.000-08:00

5'10 x 20 1/4 x 2 3/8 CI POD. Board is too big for me. Typical pressure dents on deck. Good shape overall. Still real white. Two sets of Fins. FG Twin + trailer, and CI composites come with the board. Will post some pics of the deck when I get the wax removed. North San Diego. e-mail me at brownfishsurfing@gmail.com $275

Photo Caption Contest

2008-11-25T02:53:00.001-08:00

More Bamboo Thoughts

2008-11-20T07:36:00.000-08:00

I have recently had the grave displeasure of being without a set of Bamboo Fins from Marlin (Fins 101). Riding a board for quite some time with Bamboo, then for one reason or another, being without, really makes you realize how good these fins really are. Marlin is a good guy, great craftsmen, and provides good customer service. With all this in mind, I've decided that not only all the boards that I ride, but all the boards that I shape, will now have Marlins fins. Either glass-on or Lokbox, you really can't lose.

More Pics from Last Weekend

2008-11-18T22:24:00.000-08:00

Thanks again to Tom English at www.alohawealth.com